Thursday, January 29, 2009

Seeking perfect fitting trousers - part 1

Posted by PicasaLast night I started work on a new sewing project .... a trial pair of Ottobre trousers which I am initially making as a 'toile' in gingham so that I can work out my fitting adjustments.



In order to achieve the 'perfect pair of trousers' (finger crossed!) I'm following the directions in "Pants for Any Body" by Pati Palmer & Susan Pletsch. They recommend a number of modifications prior to cutting out the pattern. Here are the modifications that I've made:

- Front has a 1" seam allowance to allow for large tummy alterations. I doubt I'll need this, but thought it best to have it just in case. "Pants for Any Body" actually recommended a 2" allowance, but I thought that was unnecessary for me.

- Front and back inner leg seams have a 2" seam beginning at crotch level and then tapering to a 1.5cm seam allowance 8" down. This extra amount is to allow for alterations required by full thighs or a thick body. I'm fairly sure I'll have to make some pattern alterations in this area.

- Front and back outer leg seams have a 1" seam allowance. This is to allow for curvy hips.

- Normal hemline has been extended to a 3" hem to allow for longer legs. I don't think I'll need this, but once again I've added it just in case.

-An extra 2" has been added to the crotch depth. The 2" is then removed by sewing a tuck. I then made two extra rows of stitching on the tuck, 1/4" apart. This will make lengthening the crotch easy as I'll simply need to remove a row of stitching at a time in order to lengthen the crotch in 1/2" increments. Unfortunately I forgot to add the extra 2" on the Pants Front, so I've sliced the fabric at the correct place and have inserted an extra 2" of fabric. They haven't gone back together quite so smoothly so I must have it a bit off-grain. I do hope that this won't cause me lots of extra problems in the future!!

Unfortunately my sewing attempts last night were dashed with my Elna Supermatic machine breaking down. The belt has been slipping for a while but last night it became so bad I could hardly sew. I have been gearing up to take it in for a service, so the time has definitely come! Thankfully my wonderful sister, who also has an Elna Supermatic, had loaned me her so that I don't have to go through sewing withdrawals while mine is being serviced. Needless to say, I swapped the machines around hoping to continue with my sewing. My sisters machine sounds very different to my machine. You can very clearly hear a spring moving while you sew. I do hope everything is OK with the machine ... I'd hate to be the person who breaks it. The noise made me a little nervous so I abandoned the sewing for the evening.

1 comment:

mermaids said...

good luck with the pants. once you get the adjustments worked out on one ottobre pattern, you can just transfer those same adjustments to any ottobre pattern.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...