Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Self-Drafted Skirt 2

Self-Drafted Skirt 2 is quite similar to Skirt 1. It is a bias-cut skirt with an elasticated waist. Compared to Skirt 1, it uses a more fluid, lighter weight 100% polyester fabric with a batik-looking print. I've had the fabric in my stash for a couple of years, and love the fabric so much that it has taken me all of this time to cut into it.

7 Self-Drafted Skirts in 14 Days

The difference between Skirt 1 and Skirt 2 is the position and width of the flare. I've moved the flare so that it begins at mid-thigh, and have also widened the flare by quite a lot. To create the flare, I took my rectangular shaped pattern piece, and made 5 slashes from hem-line to mid thigh. I then opened the slashes by 4 cm at the hemline (taking care to keep the centre-front straight).

Unlike Skirt 1, Skirt 2 is lined. I cut the lining on the straight-grain, while the outer fabric is cut on the bias. This caused some issues as the outer fabric stretched more than the lining. Consequently when I sewed the lining and outer fabric together at the waist, the outer fabric needed to be eased in a lot. Placing the outer fabric against the feeddogs and holding back the fabric as I stitched helped a lot. It also meant that the skirt is too tight to pull up over my hips. Instead, I need to put it on over my head.

7 Self-Drafted Skirts in 14 Days

Unlike Skirt 1, Skirt 2 doesn't hug the back of my legs in an unflattering way. I assume the lining fixed up that problem, but I'm not really sure. Perhaps it also has something to do with the different fabric.

I am fairly happy with the result ... and I particularly adore the fabric. For Skirt 3 I will try moving the flare up even higher...

Friday, March 4, 2011

Self-Drafted Skirt 1

I am making the first skirt from 100% Polyester, purchased recently from Textile Traders at 50% off. (Yay!!) It will be a bias-cut skirt with an elasticated waist and is drafted from a modified rectangle.

I used the following measurements:
- waist circumference
- hip circumference
- distance between waist and hip
- desired skirt length

I started out by drafting a rectangle
(1/4 of hip circumference, plus 1cm) x (skirt length)
I added extra length to the top for the elastic casing (elastic width x 2, plus 1cm)
I also added a horizontal line to show where my hips are. I'll use this reference line later when I add some waist shaping.

3rd Draft

The next step was to add some waist shaping, as I don't want a lot of excess fabric between the waist/hips. I narrowed the waist by about 5cm and added a curve between the waist and hip. (This makes the narrowest part of the skirt smaller than my hip measurement, but as I am cutting the skirt on the bias I will still be able to pull it up over my hips. I wouldn't be able to do that if I was cutting the skirt on the straight grain).

Adding waist shaping

Here is the end result.

7 Self-Drafted Skirts in 14 Days

7 Self-Drafted Skirts in 14 Days

I feel that the placement of the flare is drawing too much emphasis to my hips. It really looks like the pattern dips in below my hips and then flares out again. (The bias cut makes this worse). For my next skirt, I'll start the flare higher up. I also need to modify the hip curve a bit. You can't see it from the photo, but there is excess fabric above my hip as I've made the hip curve on the pattern too pronounced for my shape.

7 Self-Drafted Skirts in 14 Days


I had no idea the back of the skirt was doing that until I took the photos. Not a good look. And to think I've worn this out in public! I wonder if wearing a slip under the skirt would stop this from happening. I'll have to try....

Thursday, March 3, 2011

My creative space

My creative space
has a pile of fabric waiting to be made into skirts for my 7 Skirts project.
(Yes, the project is in full swing ... it is just taking me a while to write them up).

My creative space is also strewn with drafting tools. Here an elasticated skirt is in mid-draft.

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

7 Skirts in 7 Days

Ottobre 02/07 #8
Originally uploaded by feebeez.
I feel like drafting and making some skirts .... which has me wondering if I could pump out 7 skirts in 7 days. If I was making them all from a TNT pattern, I'm sure I could, but I do want to draft them all from scratch.

OK ... lets try for 7 Self-Drafted Skirts in 14 Days and see what happens.
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