I am making the first skirt from 100% Polyester, purchased recently from Textile Traders at 50% off. (Yay!!) It will be a bias-cut skirt with an elasticated waist and is drafted from a modified rectangle.
I used the following measurements:
- waist circumference
- hip circumference
- distance between waist and hip
- desired skirt length
I started out by drafting a rectangle
(1/4 of hip circumference, plus 1cm) x (skirt length)
I added extra length to the top for the elastic casing (elastic width x 2, plus 1cm)
I also added a horizontal line to show where my hips are. I'll use this reference line later when I add some waist shaping.
The next step was to add some waist shaping, as I don't want a lot of excess fabric between the waist/hips. I narrowed the waist by about 5cm and added a curve between the waist and hip. (This makes the narrowest part of the skirt smaller than my hip measurement, but as I am cutting the skirt on the bias I will still be able to pull it up over my hips. I wouldn't be able to do that if I was cutting the skirt on the straight grain).
Here is the end result.
I feel that the placement of the flare is drawing too much emphasis to my hips. It really looks like the pattern dips in below my hips and then flares out again. (The bias cut makes this worse). For my next skirt, I'll start the flare higher up. I also need to modify the hip curve a bit. You can't see it from the photo, but there is excess fabric above my hip as I've made the hip curve on the pattern too pronounced for my shape.
I had no idea the back of the skirt was doing that until I took the photos. Not a good look. And to think I've worn this out in public! I wonder if wearing a slip under the skirt would stop this from happening. I'll have to try....